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Food
Dairy products and grains form the foundation of mountain cuisine. Yet, despite cattle breeding being the dominant activity in high mountain regions, the traditional cuisine was never monotonous. Bread was—and remains—the most essential food.
Until the 17th century, several types of grains were cultivated even in mountainous regions, though yields were low, and obtaining just one sack of grain required enormous effort. Moreover, barley bread was bitter, rye bread soggy, and buckwheat bread too dark. That’s why white flour was always treasured—folk poets often sang about the prized “white wheat.” Corn arrived in the 17th century, marking the beginning of the corn bread era.
But the flavor of bread doesn’t depend only on the type of flour. You’ll see this clearly at a katun, where the magic of a mountain woman’s skilled hands, spring water, and fire come into play. In the past, if a sac (metal lid for baking) was unavailable, the woman would cover the dough with cabbage or wild vine leaves, then bury it in hot ash and coals. Bread baked this way is unbelievably delicious—especially when eaten warm.
FRIED DOUGH (PRIGANICE)
You probably already know: what bread and salt are to other cultures, priganice and honey are to Montenegro—a symbol of welcome. Once made from basic bread dough, they are now enriched with eggs and milk.
KACAMAK
This traditional dish requires plenty of cheese and kajmak (which katuns have in abundance), and at least an hour of slow cooking. Today, kacamak is a specialty in national restaurants, but its best flavor is found at its source—above 1,500 meters. Spring water and fire add their touch, and thick, fresh sour milk is a must-have side.
LAND OF CHEESE AND KAJMAK
Kajmak is indispensable—without it, many dishes would lack their final flair, and some wouldn’t even exist. Whether you prefer kajmak from Mojkovac (Sinjajevina and Proscenske Mountains), Durmitor, or Piva is a matter of personal taste. There’s also a big difference between young, aged, and skorup stored in a sheep-skin bag. All have distinctive identities, as do the cheeses.
Today, practical metal and plastic containers are used in katuns, but in the past, everything was made of wood—from milking vessels to cooling basins for forming kajmak skin, to barrels carefully packed with cheese wheels. Wood contributed to the aging of cheese and kajmak, preserving them while also enhancing flavor.
Besides wood and grass, cheese-making technique also influences taste.
DURMITOR SKORUP
Durmitor skorup is protected at the national level as a product with a designation of origin. “Durmitor skorup is produced using traditional methods and is an integral part of the history and culture of the Durmitor region,” states the Ministry of Agriculture.
The defined geographic area for livestock grazing and skorup production includes the municipalities of Zabljak, Pluzine, and Savnik. The specific climate and unique plant life influence the quality and sensory properties of the raw milk and the skorup produced there.
Durmitor skorup has a distinctive appearance, taste, and aroma. It’s a piquant, nutrient-rich food with high energy value. During the aging process, its characteristic structure and flavor develop. Aging in sheep-skin (mjesina) gives the product a unique identity.
PRLJO CHEESE (FROM PIVA)
This traditional cheese from the Piva region has a distinct flavor and aroma, recognizable by its crumbly, grainy texture. Prljo is a low-fat cheese made from milk from which kajmak has been removed. It is stored in barrels or sheep-skin (mjesine).
When aged in sheep-skin, the bag is turned and cleaned every other day to allow the cheese to drain through the pores of the skin. Over time, this is done less frequently. The cheese can age for up to a year in mjesina without losing quality.
WILD GREENS AND VEGETABLES
In Montenegro’s high mountain regions, the land, water, and air are pure. So whatever the hosts offer—fresh from their garden or picked from the meadow—couldn’t be healthier.
The mountains are rich in wild herbs traditionally used in cooking. In forests, you can gather wild garlic, and from meadows: nettle, dandelion, dock, sorrel, lady’s mantle, among others—for salads, soups, stews, and pies. The flavors of wild greens especially stand out in handmade pie crusts.
ENERGY DRINKS
Ira and jardum.
Ira is the liquid separated during cheese-making. When boiled and combined with sour milk, it becomes mildly fermented. In summer, it’s more than just a refreshing drink—it’s full of minerals and vitamins, revitalizing and mood-boosting.
Jardum is made by salting and simmering sheep milk until it thickens. The best is prepared around St. Elijah’s Day, August 2nd.
FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS
Lamb cooked in milk is one of the tastiest and most exquisite dishes a host could offer on special occasions. The second option? Lamb under the sac.